Scenic Sonagirji

Sonagirji is a prominent siddha kshetra (pilgrimage) of Jain faith that invites pilgrims to a soul-searching assortment of 78 temples on a scenic mountain in a village at Datiya district in Madhya Pradesh, India.
It was their second trip to Sonagirji. Earlier Vasu was two and Darsh barely four months old. This time Darsh turning two and Vasu already four.
Both had been watching trains going past while travelling on the road. It was exciting for them to be at the railway station and watch trains from very close quarters, especially for Darsh who was enjoying the privilege for the first time in his consciousness. They simply could not sit at one place at the railway station.

Darsh took his time to trust the train for sitting or lying down on his own. He preferred to be in my lap most of the time.

In spite of the rush at Sonagirji, we fortunately got a room at the Kundkund Nagar Dharmshala. Our room directly looked over the huge standing idol of Lord Bahubali ji, adorned with fluttering yellow flags around it. The dharamshala has a Jain temple that models five top pilgrimages of Jain faith - Shikharji, Girnarji, Champapur, Kailash Parvat and Gomteswara (Bahubaliji).


As per practice, we got ready for the yatra very early in the morning to be undertaken bare foot. The pious place presented a spectacular sight for the eyes, something which is rare to witness in the metro life. While the large orange ball of fire rose from one horizon, three quarters of the moon still looked down from the cool blue sky undisturbed.

Outside the Panch Tirth temple within the premises of the Dharmshala lay scattered white sweet smelling flowers with orange stems. The orange stems of these flowers are utilized in the Jain temples for idol worshipping.

Vasu and Darsh spent all their little time at the Panch Tirth running around the open place and sliding from the Sheetal Nala of the Shikharji model. They barely folded hands before the tirthankar idols, let alone chanting namokar mantra properly. I tried to make them pray but to no avail at all.

As we set off for the first yatra, Darsh was carried around in the lap of a local boy named Pratap, of course on paid basis.

From our place of stay, a narrow lane through the village led to the mountains renowned for evaporating all worries. Home to a myriad of huddled white structures epitomizing faith of mankind in its supremely refined form - Sonagir ji may well be called the abode of faith.

Along the lane stood this huge and seemingly centuries old tree on a raised wide platform. Multitude of roots fell to the ground from this majestic tree. A magnificent sight, I must admit.

As we embarked the pilgrimage, Vasu was only and only interested in spotting peacock. Each one of us were aware of his single-minded pursuit. We all could be easily spotted pointing in one direction or the other, helping Vasu look at as many peacocks as possible.

The tall and round tops of the temple stood high and mighty with yellow unfurled flags flapping violently on their tops.

Birds chirped loudly, as the sun rose higher.

The day became hotter gradually.

As sunlight glorified the entire mountain, the place unfolded the many visual delights in its store for us.

There was this wild grass with golden buds that looked striking to the eyes.

A dirty pond gleamed with a bright white lily... exemplifying the saying... "कीचड में ही कमल खिलतें हैं" ...

Pipal saplings were shooting off the marble railing outside the main Chandraprabhu temple. Its crimson young leaves in company with the older green ones pleased the eyes very much.

A chameleon basked in the sun gracefully alongside the path, as if a queen resting in her palace... all her limbs were spread out over a wild growth of delicate grass for balance...

A dotted frog camouflaged itself marvelously in the middle of the filthy overgathering of algae ...

And a wild unknown plant bore interestingly patterned green fruits...

During the darshans, I lured Vasu into chanting namokar mantra once or twice by telling him that he would spot peacock if he will pray. He even obliged and saw a couple of peacocks wandering about the picturesque vistas.



One peacock was pecking on grains sprawled on one of the vedis.

Another one was cleaning himself perched on a stone near a bush.

Down the sacred mountain, there are many more Jain temples at Sonagirji. It is a very small village that has not seen much development, except for electricity, concrete houses and counted few shops of cold drinks, snacks and fancy toys. Strange as it may sound, the place has no chemist shop in the vicinity. Poverty rules the place, with children of the village easily found begging from the tourists, siting in the middle of the road without any hesitation, as if it were their playground or matted floor of their house.

Each time we passed the shops in the small market down the hill, Vasu made sure he was bought one toy for himself - first a toy mobile phone, second a battery operated laser gun and at last yet another set of bow and arrow - all in a matter of two days. All were of course thrown into the dustbin after being badly mutilated the very next day!

The next morning was equally beautiful. The sun was as bright and red.

The temples looked gorgeous against the typical dawn sky...

Birds chirping and a cool breeze tingling the skin with energy and enthusiasm....

The sky grew brighter blue as the day ascended... the temples looked even brighter and lovelier...

The place is so neat... so pristine... so peaceful and laid back... no body is in a hurry... The temples pose a simple task to be accomplished... that often takes shape of a race .... with family and friends going past you or remaining behind..

Darsh for a change walked throughout the second day, as he was a bit clingy right from the start... would not go to any help...

He walked barefoot the entire distance holding his Nana ji's hand or occasionally strolling by himself under able supervision. Its only near culmination of the march that I had to handle him personally and carry him down the mountain...

This time Darsh also joined Vasu's obsession for peacock-watching. In fact, he walked in order to catch a glimpse of the peacocks that Vasu was treating his eyes with.

Everyone in the family was conscious of their innocent interest. They all kept a vigil for any sign of peacock during the entire yatra.